A transformative journey through Sierra Leone

Aug 13

My visit to Sierra Leone was a journey that explored its deep, rich, complex and heartbreaking history.

As our boat arrived at Bunce Island, where the largest British Slave castles once operated, I was flushed with sad emotions. This was the place where many West Africans were forced to leave their homeland only to find out that they would never come back again. Many of whom ended up on ships on the Transatlantic Slave route to the Americas and West Indies, better known today as the Caribbean.

Slave Castles on Bunce Island, Sierra Leone

Entrance to Slave Castle on Bunce Island, Sierra Leone

Royal African Company on Bunce Island, Sierra Leone

Entrance of underground torture cave, Bunce Island, Sierra Leone

Elders from the Temne tribe of Sierra Leone on Bunce Island

My overwhelming sad emotions were soon turned into bittersweet as I got to cook with Chef Miatta Marke of “Cole Street” Restaurant and Guesthouse in Freetown. There were so many similarities to America’s Southern cooking. And just like that, a light bulb turned on inside me! The Soul food of America! I understood the correlation between 2 countries 5000 miles apart. A subtle yet impactful realization that reminded me how connected we are despite our distances and differences.

Preparation of Lobster Boil, Sierra Leone

Cooking Class at Cole Street Guesthouse, Freetown Sierra Leone

Cooking Class with Chef Miatta Marke of Cole Street Guesthouse, Freetown Sierra Leone

My everlasting passion for local food landed on a quest for the Red Flat Beans that resemble a Fava bean. I was advised to visit the buzzing and vibrant “Dove Cot Market” one of Sierra Leon’s largest open-air bazars in Freetown. As I weaved in and out of the aisles and corridors of this market, all my senses were activated. Melodies of the local language “Krio” and musical notes of Afrobeats filled my ears. While my eyes witnessed the many colors and textures. The ladies wore traditional Tie-dyed “Gara” fabrics that displayed vibrant colors and intricate designs.

The air was filled with an array of aromas. Stands displaying fresh produce, seafood & meat tempted me to continue exploring every nook and cranny of the market. Eventually I came across piles of grains and legumes where I finally found what I had come for, the Red Flat Beans!

Lady vendor selling Bitter Kola, Sierra Leone

Dried salted fish at Dove Cot Market, Sierra Leone

Nothing could have better sealed my journey throughout Sierra Leaon than the overpouring love and exuberance that I experienced during a welcoming dance and song by the people of Brama Town, a village of roughly 1000 people. The late Chief and head of the Brama basket weavers’ group, Samuel Walker Mansaray made sure that our arrival was celebrated from the moment our car pulled onto their territory until we said our last goodbyes. Learning the intricacies of hand basket weaving gave me a new profound respect for artisan baskets.

As we prepared to say our goodbyes, we thanked the Chief and his community for welcoming us by gifting them 300 pounds of rice, 100 pounds of sugar, 15 pounds of bar soap, and 50 pounds of Salt. Nearly a year after visiting Brama Town, we learned that Chief Samuel Walker Mansaray had sadly left us.

I am beyond grateful for Sierra Leone for leaving such an impactful effect on me.